Why Men-Eiji’s Chashu Slices Are Cut Against the Grain

A bowl of ramen is built from contrasts: hot broth and springy noodles, intense seasoning and delicate aroma, crisp toppings and tender meat. At MEN-EIJI RAMEN in Sapporo, chashu is another carefully judged element. Its texture is designed to sit comfortably in the bowl rather than compete with the restaurant’s rich gyokai-tonkotsu soup.

The direction of a slice may look like a small kitchen detail, yet it changes how the meat feels with every bite. When pork is cut against the grain, the long muscle fibres are shortened, making the chashu easier to bite, chew and combine with noodles.

That decision also suits the way ramen is eaten. A slice of pork is lifted with chopsticks, touched by hot broth and often eaten alongside noodles, spring onion and a small amount of aromatic oil. The best cut should remain substantial while yielding quickly, giving the soup a satisfying savoury finish.

What “against the grain” means

Muscle is made from bundles of fibres that run in a particular direction. This visible pattern is called the grain. Cutting with the grain leaves those fibres long, so the teeth must break through more of their length. Cutting across them divides the fibres into shorter sections before the meat reaches the bowl.

The result is usually a softer, more manageable bite. The pork does not have to be cooked until it falls apart to feel tender; the slicing itself helps create tenderness. This is especially useful for chashu, which needs enough structure to be lifted cleanly but should not feel stringy or resistant.

The principle is similar to slicing steak across the grain, although ramen chashu has its own preparation. Pork may be braised, simmered or gently cooked before being chilled and portioned. Fat, connective tissue and cooking time all affect the final mouthfeel, so the cut direction is one part of a larger process.

Why the cut matters in ramen

A ramen topping is eaten in a moving environment. Noodles soften as they sit, broth clings to their surface and steam changes the texture of everything in the bowl. Chashu needs to work within that short eating window. Slices that are too thick can dominate the mouth, while slices with long fibres may become chewy as they cool.

Cross-grain slicing creates a more immediate tenderness. It lets the pork break apart with light chewing, releasing savoury juices into the gyokai-tonkotsu broth. The seafood and pork-bone base already carries depth and richness, so the meat should add roundness rather than demand a separate effort.

This balance is familiar to Australian diners who have developed a strong appetite for ramen in cities such as Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane. A bowl may be eaten quickly during a cool evening or a busy lunch break, and the toppings need to perform from the first mouthful to the last. Chashu cut correctly helps preserve that sense of rhythm.

A texture designed for the whole bowl

Men-Eiji’s style is associated with a broth that combines seafood character and pork-bone richness. That kind of soup can be creamy, savoury and layered, with enough intensity to coat the noodles. Chashu sliced against the grain provides a contrasting texture without becoming a heavy block of meat.

The shortened fibres make it easier to break off a piece with chopsticks, while the slice still retains its shape when placed on top of the noodles. As the edge absorbs broth, the outside becomes even more integrated with the bowl. The centre can keep a gentle firmness, creating a progression from seasoned surface to tender interior.

There is also a practical benefit when eating with Japanese-style chopsticks. A thin, carefully cut slice can be picked up without tearing unpredictably. That matters when the bowl contains slippery noodles and a deep soup. Good chashu should be convenient to eat, yet still feel intentionally prepared rather than minced, shredded or overly soft.

The relationship between cooking and slicing

Cutting against the grain cannot rescue poorly prepared pork. The meat must first be cooked with control. Excessive heat can tighten muscle proteins and drive out moisture, while insufficient cooking may leave connective tissue firm. The cooking method needs to produce a slice that is tender enough to eat but stable enough to plate.

Once cooked, the pork may be cooled before portioning. Chilled meat is easier to slice neatly because the fat and flesh hold together. Consistent cuts help each bowl receive a similar amount of meat and ensure that the texture does not vary dramatically between the first and final serving of the day.

Thickness matters as well. A very thin slice can dissolve into hot broth, while a thick one can make the grain more noticeable. Against-grain cutting is most effective when paired with a thickness that suits the soup, noodles and garnish. It is a quiet example of ramen precision: several modest decisions combine to create an effortless bite.

Chashu and Sapporo’s rich ramen culture

Sapporo is famous for warming ramen, particularly in a climate where a steaming bowl has obvious appeal. MEN-EIJI’s locations, including MEN-EIJI Hiragishi BASE and Duck Ramen EIJI, reflect a local ramen culture that welcomes experimentation while respecting the fundamentals of broth, noodles and toppings.

The duck-focused restaurant gives diners another way to see how meat can shape a bowl. The menu and setting are detailed through Duck Ramen EIJI, where the protein becomes part of a different flavour direction. Comparing meats makes the purpose of slicing easier to appreciate: each one needs preparation and portioning suited to its fat, fibre and relationship with the soup.

For Australian visitors, Sapporo ramen can feel especially appealing during a winter trip from Melbourne or Canberra, where cold weather makes a rich broth feel restorative. It also offers a contrast with the lighter, faster style of some Australian noodle meals. Here, the pork is not simply an added protein; it is part of the bowl’s architecture.

The craft behind a seemingly simple slice

The founder, Jun Furukawa, has built MEN-EIJI’s reputation through continued attention to technique, collaborations and international pop-ups. Recognition such as a Michelin Bib Gourmand reflects the broader dining experience, but small details remain central. The angle of a knife and the direction of a fibre can influence the guest’s impression as much as a more visible garnish.

This attention to detail is also consistent with handmade accompaniments. The restaurant’s approach to preparation can be explored through the handmade gyoza story, which shows how texture and technique matter beyond the ramen bowl. Gyoza and chashu are different foods, yet both depend on controlling texture rather than relying only on seasoning.

Australian diners often notice this kind of care when comparing restaurant ramen with home cooking. Supermarket pork can be delicious, but it is rarely portioned for a precise bowl of broth, and home cooks may not have the time to test slicing direction, cooking temperature and resting time together. In a specialist ramen kitchen, those choices are repeated until the result becomes dependable.

How to notice the difference when eating

The easiest way to assess the cut is to focus on resistance. Lift a slice with chopsticks and take a bite without over-chewing. Meat cut against the grain should separate relatively quickly, with a clean tenderness rather than long strands that pull away from the slice.

Then try it with noodles and broth. The pork should remain recognisable, but it should not force you to pause while the noodles cool. Its seasoning and fat should blend into the soup, adding depth to each mouthful. If the slice feels connected to the broth instead of sitting separately on top, the preparation has achieved its purpose.

Pay attention to the edges, too. A well-portioned piece can have a slightly more seasoned outer surface while the inside remains soft. The contrast is subtle, but it gives the topping character. It also explains why a simple-looking slice can be the product of careful selection, cooking, resting and knife work.

For diners in Perth, Adelaide or regional Australian cities who are learning to judge ramen, this is a useful detail to remember. A bowl is not assessed by broth strength alone. Noodle firmness, aromatic balance, garnish, temperature and meat texture all contribute to whether the meal feels complete.

Cutting pork across its muscle fibres is therefore a practical choice grounded in eating pleasure. At MEN-EIJI RAMEN, it supports the rich seafood-and-pork broth, keeps the chashu tender without making it fragile and allows every component to be enjoyed in a single spoonful or pair of chopstick movements.

Visit MEN-EIJI Hiragishi BASE or Duck Ramen EIJI in Sapporo and take a moment to notice how the chashu behaves in the bowl. Pair the meat with the gyokai-tonkotsu soup, noodles and toppings, and experience how a precise slice can turn a familiar ramen component into part of the restaurant’s signature style.