How Men-Eiji's Duck Ramen Compares to Traditional Shoyu Ramen
A quiet revolution has been simmering in Australia's noodle bowls for over a decade. Ramen shops in Sydney's CBD and Chatswood, Melbourne's CBD laneways, Brisbane's James Street precinct and even Perth's Northbridge now serve bowls that would have been unimaginable outside Japan a generation ago. Among the more intriguing arrivals is Men-Eiji's duck-based ramen, a Hokkaido interpretation that pushes against the soy-soaked orthodoxy most Australians first fell in love with.
Traditional shoyu ramen is where many Australian diners cut their teeth, with its clear amber broth, lean chicken or pork base, and the unmistakable tang of soy sauce. Men-Eiji, a Sapporo-based brand specialising in gyokai-tonkotsu (seafood and pork bone) broth, builds its menu around something altogether richer, finishing certain bowls with duck rather than the usual chashu. Comparing the two styles reveals how a single bowl can travel from light clarity to deep oceanic weight.
The broth foundations: gyokai-tonkotsu meets soy tradition
Shoyu ramen, in its Tokyo-original form, leans on a clear dashi built from chicken, sometimes niboshi (dried sardines), and a generous pour of soy sauce. The result is transparent, golden, and relatively lean. Salt, not fat, carries the seasoning. Men-Eiji's broth sits on the opposite end of the spectrum. Their gyokai-tonkotsu base simmers pork bones together with dried scallops, niboshi and other seafood elements for hours, producing a milky, opaque liquid with a viscosity that coats the back of a spoon.
Founder Jun Furukawa, who trained across Japan before settling in Sapporo, treats the broth as the soul of the bowl. His two venues, MEN-EIJI Hiragishi BASE and Duck Ramen EIJI, both serve the same signature base, then build different toppings and flavour directions on top. Where shoyu shows off its elegance through restraint, the Men-Eiji broth announces itself with body, a briny edge and a savouriness that lingers well after the last sip.
Noodle choices and texture
A bowl's character depends heavily on the noodle underneath. Most shoyu ramen pairs with medium-thickness, straight or gently waved noodles that resist sogginess while letting the lighter broth shine. Men-Eiji uses thicker, more aggressively waved noodles that grip onto the heavier broth, lifting flavour with every bite.
The choice between noodle textures is more personal than many diners realise. Some prefer the snap of a firmer noodle against a richer soup, while others want their noodles to soften and absorb. Curious eaters exploring the Men-Eiji menu can read more about gyokai tonkotsu noodle texture details, which explain why certain shapes and hydration levels suit heavier broths better than others. Australians who grew up eating udon and ramen in equal measure often gravitate towards the chewier, more substantial noodles that pair naturally with Men-Eiji's soup.
Protein choices: duck versus chashu
Duck is the most noticeable departure from shoyu convention. Men-Eiji's Duck Ramen EIJI location in Sapporo builds its menu around duck in multiple forms: seared breast slices, minced duck meatballs, and rich confit-style pieces that melt under chopsticks. The meat carries a gamier, more aromatic profile than pork, with a layer of subcutaneous fat that bastes the broth as it rests on top.
Traditional shoyu ramen typically tops the bowl with chashu, rolled pork belly braised in soy, mirin and sugar until tender. The flavour is sweet, savoury and familiar, a comfort anchor that complements the lighter broth. Duck, by contrast, introduces iron-rich depth and a sharper, more mineral taste. Australian diners already familiar with duck at modern Asian restaurants in Melbourne's Fitzroy or Sydney's Surry Hills will recognise those flavour signatures, though how they interact with ramen broth is a different experience altogether.
Regional roots and Sapporo identity
Shoyu ramen is most associated with Tokyo, though variations exist across Japan. Men-Eiji comes from a completely different culinary geography. Sapporo sits at the centre of Hokkaido food culture, a region famous for miso ramen, butter, seafood and game birds. The colder climate favours heavier broths, fattier toppings, and bolder seasoning that can stand up to long winters.
Jun Furukawa's background and his international pop-ups, including appearances that earned recognition such as a Michelin Bib Gourmand, have helped spread awareness of this regional style beyond Japan. Australian food media has begun to notice, with ramen crawls through Tokyo now commonly followed by detours north to Sapporo for the heavier, more idiosyncratic bowls that Men-Eiji has helped popularise.
What Australian diners notice on the first sip
First impressions matter in ramen, and the two styles deliver very different openings. A traditional shoyu bowl greets the palate with a clean, salty lift, almost like a well-made chicken broth with an assertive soy finish. The mouthfeel is light, almost delicate, and the toppings arrive in clearly defined layers.
Men-Eiji's duck ramen opens with weight. The broth coats the tongue, the seafood aromatics rise first, then the pork depth settles underneath. Duck adds a roasted, slightly gamey note that shifts the entire bowl away from the clean elegance of shoyu towards something more rustic and substantial. Australian diners accustomed to the soy-led clarity of most Sydney ramen bars often describe their first Men-Eiji bowl as a revelation, though it can feel heavy on a humid Brisbane afternoon or after a long day in an Adelaide office.
Pairing sides and the eating sequence
How a bowl is eaten shapes its impact. With shoyu ramen, the conventional approach is to sip the broth first, then break the noodles in, and only later mix in toppings like menma, nori and ajitama. The lightness of the broth rewards patience, and adding too much chilli oil can overwhelm the soy-driven character.
Duck ramen tolerates, even encourages, more aggressive mixing. The fattier broth bonds with tare, with chilli crisp, and with the rendered duck juices that bleed from the toppings. Many Australians who travel specifically for Hokkaido ramen find that they eat duck ramen faster, with bigger spoonfuls, and with less restraint around extras. A bowl of duck ramen alongside a side of rice, which is standard at Men-Eiji, often becomes a complete meal in a way that shoyu rarely does.
Price, accessibility and where to find each style
Both styles sit at the higher end of the casual dining market in Australia, whether you find them locally or travel for the genuine article. A bowl of shoyu ramen in Sydney or Melbourne typically costs between AUD 18 and AUD 26, with duck-based ramen often landing at AUD 24 to AUD 32 when imported brands collaborate with local chefs. In Sapporo, Men-Eiji's pricing is significantly lower, which is part of the appeal for Australian travellers planning a ramen pilgrimage through Hokkaido.
Local availability matters too. Shoyu ramen dominates Australian menus, from suburban Japanese cafes to CBD izakayas. Duck ramen remains niche, found mostly at specialty venues, during pop-up events, or through chefs who trained in Sapporo. The growing interest in regional Japanese cooking suggests duck ramen will spread, but for now, Australians wanting the authentic Men-Eiji experience still travel to the source.
Signs of a well-made duck ramen
- The broth holds its heat without separating or turning greasy as the bowl cools.
- Duck pieces show visible caramelisation and release aroma the moment chopsticks lift them.
- Noodles retain chew from first bite to last, even as they absorb richer broth.
- A balanced tare prevents the bowl from tasting purely of pork bone or soy.
Hallmarks of an authentic shoyu ramen
- The broth remains translucent, never cloudy, with a clean amber tone.
- Soy seasoning is assertive but never harsh, layered rather than one-note.
- Chashu slices are thin, tender, and rolled, often showing a visible fat-to-lean ratio.
- Aromatics like yuzu peel or white pepper appear in measured, restrained doses.
| Feature | Men-Eiji duck ramen | Traditional shoyu ramen |
|---|---|---|
| Broth base | Gyokai-tonkotsu (pork bone + seafood) | Chicken, dashi and soy |
| Colour | Opaque, milky white | Clear, amber |
| Noodles | Thick, wavy, high hydration | Medium, straight to gently waved |
| Signature protein | Duck (breast, mince, confit) | Rolled chashu pork belly |
| Region | Sapporo, Hokkaido | Tokyo and broader Japan |
| Flavour profile | Bold, oceanic, fatty | Salty, clean, elegant |
| Best paired with | Rice, chilli crisp, extra tare | Nori, ajitama, light aromatics |
| Typical AUD price (Australia) | AUD 24–32 (imported/pop-up) | AUD 18–26 (locally available) |
Ready to taste the difference for yourself? Plan a Sapporo trip that includes both MEN-EIJI Hiragishi BASE and Duck Ramen EIJI on the same evening, then return home with a sharper sense of how a single bowl of ramen can swing from soy clarity to oceanic richness. Australian ramen lovers curious about the heavier end of the spectrum will find that comparing these two styles side by side is the fastest way to understand what makes Hokkaido broth so distinct, and worth the long flight from Sydney or Melbourne.